Kawasaki ZXR 250 R (ZX 250 D1) 91 Spark Plug NGK
Price is Per Plug
NGK Standard Spark Plugs
|Thread||Construction||Heat Rating||Thread Reach||Firing End|
10mm thread, 1.00mm pitch, 16mm hex
19mm thread reach
2 ground electrode
Spark plugs play an essential role in determining the maximum power, fuel consumption and emissions. NGK is constantly developing its range of spark plugs to be up to date with the demands of modern engines.
The heat range of a spark plug is essential to its life span and efficiency. Plugs must be able to run hot in order to burn off carbon/oil deposits, yet must be able to transfer heat quickly, preventing overheating and premature failure.
NGK spark plugs utilize a copper wire, which has superior heat-conductivity compared to conventional iron cores. This allows heat to dissipate faster, preventing 'hot spots' that can cause pre-ignition.
Heat resistance alone does not affect fouling resistance - for this a longer insulator nose must be used. Ordinarily a longer insulator nose would be more susceptible to heat, however NGK's copper core allows the spark plug to have both high heat and high fouling resistance.
The CR9EK spark plug features twin grounds at the firing end. This combats 'cold fouling' by forcing the spark to discharge across the insulator, thus burning away any built up carbon that could cause poor starting or misfires.
Examining your spark plugs frequently can give insights into the inner workings of your engine. An overheated spark plug may be white and blistered at the firing end, while blackened deposits indicate carbon accumulation; the plug is running at too cold a temperature to burn away carbon deposits.
Even at the ideal temperature range, eventually carbon deposits will form on any spark plug, and will require replacement.
See our spark plug caps and HT leads
Delivery and Returns
We want you to be happy with your purchase. If you're not, just return the products to our warehouse. Unless faulty, we'd like this to be within 30 days of purchase. Exceptions apply to certain products.
Motorcycle fuses protect electrical circuits from damage caused by overloads and surges in faulty wires and components. In theory the fuse should fail and melt well before any damage occurs. Fuses by nature often suffer failure due to age, vibration, and corrosion. It also must be noted that damage can result if a fuse is repeatedly changed rather than a fault repaired. There are many types of fuse which come rated by amp to suit the components in different circuits. Three types are commonly used on motorcycles.
- Glass Tube Come in 2 sizes - 25mm and 30mm long. The amp rating is stamped on the metal end plate or printed on an internal card. Commonly used until the 80s.
Continental Fuses These small ceramic bullets have a external metal fuse. They are commonly found on 70s and 80s European models. The amp rating is colour coded:
- 5 Amp: Yellow
- 8 Amp: White
- 16 Amp: Red
- 25 Amp: Blue
Blade Fuses These are also known as ATC, ATM, or ATO fuses and come in standard, mini and maxi varieties. The standard and mini are what can be found on most modern motorcycles.
What is a Regulator/Rectifier
The regulator rectifier is a combined unit. It does the rectifying part as well the regulation part. It is part of a battery charging system. It usuallty gets an AC power feed from the stator coil of the generator (alternator). Most modern regulator rectifiers and Stators form a three phase system, so there are three wires coming from the stator feeding into the regulator rectifier. The regulator rectifier then rectifies the voltage; that is it turns the voltage from AC into an undulating DC. The voltage is then regulated; the voltage being limited to a maximum of about 14.5 volts and feeds this regulated DC out to the battery. There are some single phase, regulator rectifiers as well which perform a similar function but there are only two wires coming from the stator into the regulator rectifier which is then fed to the battery in the same way as the three phase system. Why are there two different systems? Three phase is more efficient and single phase are cheaper to produce.
Types of Regulator/Rectifiers
There are two main types of alternator that are fitted to most bikes, each requiring a different type of regulator rectifier.
1) Permanent Magnet Rotor alternator (PMR) - This has permanent magnets that revolve with the engine (rotor), either inside or around a set of wound coils (stator) to produce power. These come in various shapes and sizes. Some have two output wires (single phase), but most have three (three phase).
2) Field Control Type (FCT) - This has a 'field' or 'exciter' coil that is in place of the fixed magnets. When supplied with power from the regulator this becomes magnetised. Some types have this coil spinning inside the output 'phase' coils to give power, and will have carbon brush connections. Others have a stationary field coil, stationary phase coils and have a metal rotor spinning between the two, and need no brushes. The amount of power supplied to the field coil from the regulator decides how much output the alternator will give.
How to test the Regulator
Check the battery voltage, with the engine not running. Start the bike (increase the rpm's up a little), the voltage should now be a couple of volts more than the original battery voltage. Check both voltages (running and not running) at battery terminals.
What can go wrong with it
If yours does fail. Before going to the time and bother and expense of replacing one, it is prudent to consider that there are usually contributory factors to a failure. You should conduct a thorough inspection of all other parts of the electrical system and verify that all components are in good working order and that the regulator was correctly mounted to allow dissipation of heat produced. You could also perform some basic postmortem checks on the regulator/rectifier itself, and attempt to determine what has failed, internally if you have the necessary test equipment.
Total failure does not usually mean that every part inside the unit died at the same time. All of the parts share a common ground or hot connection; if the unit tests out totally dead, then this internal connection could have failed. This is typically due to either a manufacturing defect, overheating or metal fatigue from too many heating and cooling cycles. A failed connection can cause any of the observed failure modes, so keep that in mind: just because the device doesn't test out totally dead, doesn't mean that it wasn't defective or simply overheated one too many times.
If this happens, your battery will stop being charged, the lights become progressively more dim, and eventually the engine will stop. First look for a short or bad connection to the alternator stator coils. A bad connection can cause some serious voltage spikes, which can destroy diodes. Check also for a bad battery connection and any oxide build up on the terminals and connectors. A shorted battery or reversed terminals could cause the diodes to draw too much current and burn out. These symptoms could also point to stator failure so check the coil resistances and or output voltage if your meter has an AC range, to eliminate this.
Failed Shunt Regulator
If this happens, your headlight may become very bright and then blow. Your battery may have boiled dry also.
If the regulator burned out, check your battery connections, if they are loose or corroded the regulator has nowhere to route the output and so must get rid of the power produced in the form of heat. Also, make sure that all of your running lights are working; remember, the regulator sinks excess power, and generates a lot of heat in the process. If all of the lights aren't working, that's more heat for the regulator to get rid of.